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Stella Jean featuring at Penelope, photo by N
It’s a perfect binomial to be in Brescia and come back to Penelope, the marvelous cathedral of conceptual fashion, created by the one and only Roberta Valentini and to see the its new look, made by the architect Antonio Gardoni and creator of artistic perfumery brand Bogue, who is inspired by the idea of staircase and made the interiors more catchy and comfortable. Here I attended at a shooting made by the brilliant photographer Erminardo Aliaj (I used calling Ermengardo due to Manzonian suggestions) and I appreciated the choices made by Roberta. It has been a smashing day which ended under the sign of epicureanism in a delicious restaurant Brescia restaurant, the Osteria Bianchi, where I enjoyed a typical dish, the beef with oil and the companion of Roberta, her fantastic tales that embody relevant chapters of fashion history as well as the bright ideas by Dario Bonetta and Alessandro Boccingher, my contubernals, co-founders of AplusB gallery, who gave me details about Brescia, its history, verticality and independent spirit it saved in the passing of time, something I felt walking on the streets which makes it unique, a place where going and coming back.
UN GIORNO A BRESCIA(2): LA MIA GIORNATA PENELOPESCA ALL’ INSEGNA DI MODA, CONCETTI E EPICUREISMO
The interiors of Penelope, photo by N
É un perfetto binomio essere a Brescia e ritornare da Penelope, la meravigliosa cattedrale di moda concettuale, creata dalla sola e unica Roberta Valentini e vedere il suo nuovo look, realizzato dall’ architetto Antonio Gardoni che è il creatore del brand di profumeria artistica Bogue, il quale ha tratto ispirazione dall’ idea della scala e ha reso gli interni più accattivanti e confortevoli. Ivi ho assistito al servizio fotografico realizzato dal brillante fotografo Erminardo Aliaj (che ero solita chiamare Ermengardo in ragione di suggestioni manzoniane) e apprezzare le scelte di Roberta. È stata una giornata formidabile che si è conclusa all’ insegna dell’ epicureismo in un delizioso ristorante bresciano, l’ Osteria Bianchi in cui ho assaporato una pietanza tipica, il manzo all’ olio e gioito della compagnia di Roberta, dei suoi fantastici racconti che racchiudono significativi capitoli della storia della moda come anche le brillanti idee di Dario Bonetta ed Alessandro Boccingher, i miei contubernali, co-fondatori della galleria d’ arte AplusB, i quali mi hanno fornito dettagli su Brescia, la sua storia, la verticalità e lo spirito indipendente mantenuto intatto con il passare del tempo, qualcosa che ho avvertito passeggiando per le strade e la rende unica, un luogo in cui andare e ritornare.
The restyling work of Penelope, made by the architect Antonio Gardoni, photo by N
The restyling work of Penelope, made by the architect Antonio Gardoni, photo by N
The restyling work of Penelope, made by the architect Antonio Gardoni, photo by N
The restyling work of Penelope, made by the architect Antonio Gardoni, photo by N
Dress by Vionnet at Penelope, photo by N
Penelope, photo by N
A categorical imperative, Dream, impressed on the silk shirt by Lanvin at Penelope, photo by N
The area of Penelope featuring Christian Louboutin, photo by N appearing in the mirror
Christian Louboutin, photo by N
Christian Louboutin, photo by N
Christian Louboutin, photo by N
Dries van Noten, photo by N
Dries van Noten, photo by N
Dries van Noten, photo by N
Erminardo Aliaj being ready to work, photo by N
Coffee time with Antonio Gardoni, photo by N
Erminardo Aliaj( aka Ermengardo) working and the one and only Roberta looks at the shoots he made, photo by N
Antonio Gardoni talking with the owner of design store Rua Confettora, photo by N
Erminardo Aliaj( aka Ermengardo), me, the one and only Roberta Valentini and Alessandro Boccingher, photo by N
Carmina Campus, photo by N
Sacai Luck, photo by N
Birkenstock by Sacai Luck, photo by N
Sacai Luck, photo by N
Opening Ceremony, photo by N
Uusual shoes at Penelope, photo by N
Carmina Campus, photo by N
An accessory, a thought, a fetish, the hand-painted gaiters by Comme des Garçons, photo by N
Alessandro Boccingher and me at the Osteria Bianchi, photo by N
Wine at Osteria Bianchi, photo by N
My delicious dish, the beef with oil served with the best cornmeal mush I ever have eaten, photo by N
The one and only Roberta Valentini and me, photo by N
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
Baroque suggestions, a magic world featuring angels, fauns, satyrs and nymphs, devils and courtesans. All that is embodied in the work and life of Raja Schwahn-Reichmann, bright restorer, painter, sculptor and collector of antique costumes. The Viennese artist, awarded in 2009 for her work and her picturesque life with the Italian art Mantegna Prize, has successfully made concrete the Nietzschean imperative, making her life an artwork. Visiting the Milanese house of my dear friend Stephan Hamel, I recently ran into the marvelous decorative works she made and I had the chance to see and appreciate the transformations of di Raja, caught on photo. Elegance, irony, provocation, art and a detailed reconstruction and reinterpretation of atmospheres and ages is what shines in the work by this artist of whose name since many years is strictly connected to the Life Ball – charity event which is held in Vienna at the Rathausplatz, joins art, fashion and supports the fight against HIV – where Raja curates its set design. The works she made for 2014 Life Ball edition of whose theme is “the garden of delights giardino” will be seen tonight also via streaming by the Austrian TV channel OrftvThek which will broadcast the event featuring Conchita Wurst, Ricky Martin and for the first time a menswear fashion show, curated by L’ Uomo Vogue which will include celebrated names of fashion scene as Givenchy, Viktor & Rolf, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Etro and Dsquared2. A not to be missed happening to enjoy art and fashion and the genius of Raja Schwahn-Reichmann.
L’ ARTE, ELEGANZA & IRONIA DI RAJA SCHWAHN-REICHMANN
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
Suggestioni barocche, un magico mondo di angeli, fauni, satiri e ninfe, diavoli e cortigiane. Tutto ciò è racchiuso nell’ opera e nella vita di Raja Schwahn-Reichmann, brillante restauratrice, pittrice, illustratrice, scultrice e collezionista di costumi d’ epoca. L’ artista viennese, insignita nel 2009 per il suo lavoro e la sua pittoresca vita del Premio di arte italiana Mantegna, ha felicemente concretizzato l’ imperativo nietzschiano, rendendo la sua vita un’ opera d’ arte. Visitando la dimora milanese del mio caro amico Stephan Hamel, recentemente mi sono imbattuta nelle sue meravigliose opere decorative e ho anche avuto modo di osservare e ammirare le trasformazioni di Raja, immortalate su fotografia. Eleganza, ironia, provocazione, arte e una minuziosa ricostruzione e reinterpretazione di atmosfere ed epoche è ciò che splende nell’ opera di questa artista il cui nome è da anni strettamente legato al Life Ball – evento di beneficienza che si tiene a Vienna presso la Rathausplatz, unisce arte, moda e supporta la lotta contro l’ HIV – di cui Raja cura le scenografie. I suoi lavori per l’ edizione 2014 del Life Ball, il cui tema è “il giardino dei piaceri”, saranno visibili stasera anche via streaming per il tramite della rete televisiva austriaca OrftvThek che trasmetterà l’ evento di cui saranno protagonisti Conchita Wurst, Ricky Martin e per la prima volta una sfilata di abbigliamento uomo, curata da L’ Uomo Vogue che includerà celebri nomi della moda quali Givenchy, Viktor & Rolf, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Etro e Dsquared2. Un evento imperdibile per apprezzare arte e moda e il genio di Raja Schwahn-Reichmann.
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
A detail of work by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The transformations by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The transformations by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The transformations by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
The decorative works by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann at the Stephan Hamel’s house
An afternoon Epicurean interlude at Stephan Hamel’s house, featuring Enrico Quinto and Stephan, framed by the decorative work made by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
Enrico Quinto and me at the Stephan Hamel’s house, framed by a furniture I love, the screen by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann
Jacket Stella Jean – featuring in Penelope -, dress Stella Jean, skirt Comme des Garçons, hat Penelope archive, photo by N
To be in Brescia means to visit Penelope, the renowned boutiques, by the one and only Roberta Valentini (awesome companion of an interludes under the sign of art), it’s a perfect equation, a pleasure and categorical imperative. I was pleased to see the shop windows of the boutique dedicated to Stella Jean and also featured the accessories by Carmina Campus, brand by Ilaria Venturini Fendi promoting the culture of re-use. It’s a habit of store – as Roberta told me – to dedicate the shop window of store to a fashion designer. Naturally we also talked about the talent and intelligence of this fashion designer( of whose work is currently celebrated by a huge exhibition on Italian fashion in London at the Victoria & Albert Museum) making an excrelleny styling work as well as about the status quo of contemporary fashion connected to the moment we are living and issues concerning fashion semiotic. I deeply respect and appreciate Roberta, her vision, her ability to be into the present and future times and also her visionary and passionate spirit, supported by a great concreteness, which has successfully made concrete by her year after year, giving rise to a cathedral of conceptual fashion, showcasing and selling its most refined names (after all as fashion, a product without market doesn’t exist though it’s the most brilliant work embodying art and craftsmanship, it is and becomes nothing without). My visit to this enchanting place, emphasized by the kind collaboration of weather, continued going to Penelopesposa, such a beautiful space – which makes be tempted to get married, also to people like me who never did not consider this chance, thinking about marriage as a contract and love as freedom – where tenderness, refinement and elegance join together and dialogue between themselves, creating a harmony and that creative alchemy which makes it a cathedral to visit and where to come back. I will come back soon there, in this city, little jewel, which gives me as a gift special moments, a lot of kindness, beauty, sweetness and wonderful surprises.
ARTE & MODA A BRESCIA(2): PENELOPESCHI MOMENTI CONCETTUALI
Carmina Campus, photo by N
Essere a Brescia significa far visita a Penelope, le rinomate boutiques, boutique della sola e unica Roberta Valentini (fantastica compagna di interludi all’ insegna dell’ arte), è una perfetta equazione, un piacere e un imperativo categorico. Mi ha rallegrato vedere che le vetrine della boutique erano dedicate a Stella Jean e avevano quali protagonisti anche gli accessori di Carmina Campus, brand di Ilaria Venturini Fendi che promuove la cultura del riuso. È una consuetudine del negozio dedicate a un determinato fashion designer. Naturalmente abbiamo anche parlato del talento e intelligenza di questa fashion designer che fa un eccellente lavoro di styling (la cui opera è attualmente celebrate da una grande mostra sulla moda italiana a Londra presso il Victoria & Albert Museum) come anche sullo status quo della moda contemporanea , legato al momento che stiamo vivendo e a problematiche inerenti la semiotica della moda. Rispetto profondamente e apprezzo Roberta, la sua visione, la sua capacità di essere proiettata nel tempo, presente e futuro ed anche il suo spirito visionario e ardente, sorretto da una notevole concretezza, che è stato felicemente concretizzato anno dopo anno, dando vita a una cattedrale di moda concettuale che espone e vende i suoi nomi più raffinati (dopo tutto la moda, un prodotto senza un mercato non esiste anche se è il più brillante lavoro che racchiude arte e artigianalità, è e resta nel nulla). La mia visita in questo luogo incantevole, enfatizzato dalla gentile collaborazione del tempo, è proseguita andando da Penelopesposa, luogo estremamente bello – che fa venir voglia di sposarsi, anche a quelli come me che non hanno mai preso in considerazione questa eventualità, ritenendo che il matrimonio sia un contratto e l’ amore sia libertà – in cui dolcezza, raffinatezza e eleganza si uniscono e dialogano tra di loro, creando un’ armonia e quella alchimia creativa che la rende tale, una cattedrale da visitare e in cui ritornare. Tornerò presto qui, in questa città, piccolo gioiello che mi regala momenti speciali tanta gentilezza, bellezza, tenerezza e meravigliose sorprese.
Stella Jean, photo by N
A sweet little girl conceptual fashion oriented…, photo by N
…and her mother, a Roberta’s friend during a shopping interlude, photo by N
Marting Margiela, photo by N
Dries, van Noten, photo by N
Penelope, photo by N
My Steven Meisel moment at Penelope, hat Penelope archive, photo by N
Steven Meisel, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Lanvin, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Jacket Alexis Mabille, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Comme des Garçons vintage, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Roberta Valentini and me, photo by Alessandro Boccingher
A calla lily, unexpected gift at the Brescia railway station, given to me by a Florentine woman, photo by N
William Burroughs featuring in the Penelope’s show window, photo by N
I recently visited in Brescia the smashing cathedral of conceptual fashion Penelope, created by the brilliant and vibrant Roberta Valentini. Vibrations meeting themselves as William Burroughs featuring in the shop-windows of boutique, being this year and this month the centenary of his birth, persona immediately making me think about the cut-up (literary technique he created along with the visual artist Brion Gysin, embodied in the marvelous book “The third mind”, which has found a new context in fashion, becoming the theme of “Urban cut-up”, the Fall/Winter 2014-2015 capsule collection by L. Rousseau, young, talented fashion designer). It was sales time, thus I couldn’t enjoy most of choices made by Roberta. Nevertheless it was clear and visible her unique taste and visions I appreciate and share: one for all is Comme des Garçons along with Yohji Yamamoto, Lanvin, Vionnet, Azzedine Alaia, including also contemporary creatives as well as young contemporary creatives as Simone Rainer, Benedetta Bruzziches, Stella Jean and Fausto Puglisi. Fashion and new ideas, as sustainaibility, made concrete by the bags by Carmina Campus, brand created by the pioneer Ilaria Venturini Fendi, promoting the culture of re-use. An amazing interlude has been the visit to Penelope Sposa, bridal boutique which feels like getting married (also for the ones who – like me – are allergic to wedding, as – Domenico Modugno sang – “it does not bind a dream by a contract”). Here I also ran into a very beautiful, future spouse who was choosing her dress and was dressed by Penelope from the head to feet. Minimalism, conceptual elegance, sophistication and refinement, those are the alchemies of Penelope. A temple to visit and come back. I will come back soon to enjoy the companion of Roberta, her assertive individuality and wisdom I love and celebrate and hopefully also to see her hidden treasures, her rich fashion archives, a genuine fashion encyclopedia of conceptual fashion, source of culture and precious suggestions.
PENELOPE: QUANDO LA MODA É CULTURA E UNO STILE DI VITA
The first thing I saw at Penelope, the bag by Carmina Campus
Ho recentemente fatto visita a Brescia alla formidabile cattedrale di moda concettuale Penelope, creata dalla brillante e vibrante Roberta Valentini. Vibrazioni che si incontrano come William Burroughs, protagonista delle vetrine della boutique, il cui centenario ricorre quest’ anno, personaggio che mi fa subito pensare al cut-up (tecnica letteraria da lui creata unitamente all’ artista Brion Gysin, racchiusa nel meraviglioso libro “The third mind”, che ha trovato un nuovo contesto nella moda, divenendo il tema di “Urban cut-up”, la collezione capsule autunno/inverno 2014-2015 di L. Rousseau, giovane e talentuosa fashion designer). Era tempo di saldi, sicché non ho potuto apprezzare la maggior parte delle scelte effettuate da Roberta. Ciònondimeno era chiaro e visibile il suo gusto unico e le visioni che anche io apprezzo e condivido: uno su tutti Comme des Garçons insieme a Yohji Yamamoto, Lanvin, Vionnet, Azzedine Alaia come anche giovani creativi contemporanei quali Simone Rainer, Benedetta Bruzziches, Stella Jean e Fausto Puglisi. Moda e nuove idee come la sostenibilità, concretizzata nelle borse di Carmina Campus, brand creato dalla pionieristica Ilaria Venturini Fendi che promuove la cultura del riuso. Uno splendido interludio è stato la visita a Penelope Sposa, boutique di abiti da sposa che fa venir voglia di sposarsi (anche a coloro che – come me – sono allergici al matrimonio, poiché – come cantava Domenico Modugno – “con un contratto non si lega un sogno”). Ivi mi sono imbattuta in una futura sposa, bellissima, che stava scegliendo il proprio abito da sposa vestita da Penelope dalla testa ai piedi. Minimalismo, eleganza concettuale, sofisticazione e raffinatezza, queste sono le alchimie di Penelope. Un tempio da visitare e in cui tornare. Ritornerò presto per godere della compagnia di Roberta, della sua assertiva individualità e saggezza che amo e celebro e sperabilmente anche per vedere i suoi tesori nascosti, il suo ricco archivio, un’ autentica enciclopedia di moda concettuale, risorsa di cultura e preziose visioni.
Penelope, photo by N
Me, myself and I, hat moment at Penelope, photo by N
May the cut-up be with you!… William Burroughs at Penelope strikes back, photo by N
Magic moment: Penelopesposa, photo by N
Lightness and a detail in the name of Vionnet, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Lace, silk and a vintage details, the shoes by Alaia, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Jewelry in the name of love at Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Lanvin at Penelopesposa, photo by N
Lanvin at Penelopesposa, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
The one and only Roberta Valentini, me and the nice Penelope-sque being part of Penelope family, photo by N
Dress by Comme des Garçons, necklace by Lanvin, photo by N
Penelopesposa, photo by N
Comme des Garçons, photo by N
Comme des Garçons, photo by N
Roberta Valentini showing me a jacket by Comme des Garçons, photo by N
Miss Bonomi choosing the bridal gown and accessories at Penelopesposa, photo by N
Vionnet, photo by N
The magic of random: to see Roberta Valentini at the Brescia railway station early in the morning before leaving, photo by N
Black celebration moment featuring me, myself and I, photo by N
Alber Elbaz, creative director of celebrated French fashion house Lanvin, recently teamed with Ladurée, creating along with the chef Vincent Lemains a special edition of pink bubble gum flavored macaroons, included in a box that evokes elegant suggestions.
MODA & EPICUREISMO: I MACARONS DI LADURÉE INTERPRETATI DA ALBER ELBAZ
Alber Elbaz, direttore creativo della celebre casa di moda francese Lanvin, ha recentemente collaborato con Ladurée, creando insieme allo chef Vincent Lemains una edizione speciale di macarons rosa al sapore di bubble gum, inclusi in una scatola che evoca eleganti suggestioni.
It will be previewed on 15th February 2011 in London at the Design Museum the exhibition – which will be held from 16th February to 7th August 2011 – featuring the nominations for the Brit Insurance Museum Awards, including the Apple iPad, Herzog & de Meuron, the Spring/Summer 2011 collection by Gareth Pugh, Ohne Titel and Lanvin. The winners will be announced at the awards dinner on 15th March 2011. A not to be missed happening to enjoy the brighter contemporary creativity.
I BRIT INSURANCE DESIGN MUSEUM AWARDS 2011 AL DESIGN MUSEUM DI LONDRA
- Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2011
Sarà presentata in anteprima il 15 febbraio 2011 a Londra presso il Design Museum la mostra – che si terrà dal 16 febbraio al 7 agosto 2011 – di cui sono protagonisti i candidati ai Brit Insurance Museum Awards che includono l’ iPad della Apple, Herzog & de Meuron, la collezione primavera/estate 2011 di Gareth Pugh, Ohne Titel e Lanvin. I vincitori saranno annunciati alla cena di premiazione del 15 marzo 2011. Un evento imperdibile per apprezzare la più brillante creatività contemporanea.
1111 Lincoln Road, Miami by Herzog & de Meuron
- Lanvin for H&M
The capsule collection made by Lanvin, brand designed by the smashing Alber Elbaz for H&M, presented by a video and adv campaign made by the bright director Mike Figgis, featuring the model Natasha Poly, will be available for purchase since 23rd November 2010, making affordable the luxury suggestions evoked by the brand.
LA CAPSULE COLLECTION DI LANVIN PER H&M
- Lanvin for H&M
La capsule collection realizzata da Lanvin, brand disegnato dal formidabile Alber Elbaz per H&M, presentata da un video e una campagna pubblicitaria realizzata dal brillante regista Mike Figgis che ha quale protagonista la modella Natasha Poly, sarà in vendita a partire dal 23 novembre 2010, rendendo alla portata di tutti le lussuose suggestioni evocate dal brand.
Lanvin for H&M
