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Comme des Garçons from the archive of Penelope, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

Comme des Garçons from the archive of Penelope, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

Solemnity, incisiveness, lightness and poetry, this is the tale of “l left at home the eyes”, the exhibition of Sergio Maria Calatroni which joined fashion, design, art and has recently held in Brescia presso il Palazzo Uggeri Fenaroli. Here it was exhibited the creations by celebrated brands and fashion designers as Comme des Garçons, Christopher Kane, Julian Hakes, Martin Margiela and many others, coming from the archive of renowned cathedral of conceptual fashion Penelope, owned by the one and only Roberta Valentini along with the ones by Maria Calderara, S.C. Artroom, Costruzioni and Te Collection. The lyricism of story, constructions and their lines’ strategy becomes intelligible and meets the memories impressed in the enchanting Palazzo Uggeri Fenaroli, giving rise to a successful alchemy under the sign of elegance.

“HO LASCIATO A CASA GLI OCCHI”: L’ ALCHIMIA DELL’ ELEGANZA DI SERGIO MARIA CALATRONI

Christopher Kane from the archive of Penelope, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

Christopher Kane from the archive of Penelope, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

Solennità, incisività, leggerezza e poesia, questo il racconto di “Ho lasciato a casa gli occhi”, la mostra di Sergio Maria Calatroni che ha unito moda, design, arte e si è recentemente tenuta a Brescia presso il Palazzo Uggeri Fenaroli. Ivi sono state esposte le creazioni di celebri brands e fashion designers quali Comme des Garçons, Christopher Kane, Julian Hakes, Martin Margiela e molti altri, provenienti dall’ archivio della rinomata cattedrale della moda concettuale Penelope della sola e unica Roberta Valentini unitamente a quelle di Maria Calderara, S.C. Artroom, Costruzioni e Te Collection. Il lirismo della storia, delle costruzioni e della loro strategia delle linee hanno incontrato le memorie impresse nell’ incantevole Palazzo Uggeri Fenaroli, dando vita a una felice alchimia all’ insegna dell’ eleganza.

United Nude from the archive of Penelope, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

Julian Hakes  coming from the archive of Penelope, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

The one and only Roberta Valentini visiting the exhibition, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

The one and only Roberta Valentini visiting the exhibition, shoes Martin Margiela, coming from the archive of Penelope, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

photo by Alessandro Boccingher

photo by Alessandro Boccingher

photo by Alessandro Boccingher

photo by Alessandro Boccingher

photo by Alessandro Boccingher

photo by Alessandro Boccingher

photo by Alessandro Boccingher

photo by Alessandro Boccingher

The one and only Roberta Valentini talking with Sergio Maria Calatroni, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

The one and only Roberta Valentini talking with Sergio Maria Calatroni, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

The Spring/Summer 2015 collection by Maison Martin Margiela, brand owned by Renzo Rosso and designed by John Galliano has been on show at 10 Corso Como, renowned Milan concept-store created by the brilliant Carla Sozzani. It was a suggestive showcase of sartorialism  from which has arisen a question: to which extent is the Margiela’s heritage in this collection? The answer is articulated and complex. These creations has to be considered by using a double profile or rather the approach of matter and the concept, the sign which made Margiela a signature. The way to use matter, combine different materials giving rise to an amazing work of experimentation, follows Martin Margiela’s lesson. Instead observing architecture as a whole, it shines the incisive and theatrical sign of John Galliano which overlaps and stands above the Margiela’s conceptual experience, fascinations that make me think about a kind of Marchioness Luisa Casati who visits avant-garde landscapes. That is really far away from the austere minimalism, joined to the experimentation and a fine work of craftsmanship – leitmotiv staying -,paradigm which made famous the brand. Anyway that has been just the debut of John Galliano, genius fashion designer, as creative director of brand, then naturally it will be much other to see in order to discover the way he will reinterpret, renew and enrich the sign of Margiela.

LA COLLEZIONE PRIMAVERA/ESTATE 2015 DI MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA IN MOSTRA A 10 CORSO COMO DI MILANO

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

La collezione primavera/estate 2015 di Maison Martin Margiela, brand di proprietà Renzo Rosso e disegnato da John Galliano è stata in mostra a 10 Corso Como, rinomato concept-store di Milano, creato dalla brillante Carla Sozzani. Una suggestiva rassegna di sartorialità da cui nasce una domanda: in che misura l’ heritage di Margiela si ritrova in questa collezione? La risposta è articolata e complessa. Tali creazioni devono essere prese in considerazione sotto un duplice profilo ovvero l’ approccio materico e il concept, il segno che ha reso Margiela una firma. Il modo di usare la materia, di abbinare diversi materiali, dando vita a un meraviglioso lavoro di sperimentazione segue la lezione di Martin Margiela. Osservando invece le architetture nella loro interezza, splende il segno incisivo e teatrale di John Galliano che si sovrappone e quasi sovrasta l’ esperienza concettuale di Margiela, fascinazioni che mi fanno pensare a una sorta di Marchesa Luisa Casati che visita paesaggi futuristici. Ciò è oltremodo lontano dall’ austero minimalismo, unito alla sperimentazione ed a una fine artigianalità, un leitmotiv che permane, paradigma che ha reso famoso il marchio. In ogni caso questo è stato il debutto di John Galliano, geniale fashion designer, nelle vesti di direttore creativo del brand, quindi ci sarà naturalmente molto altro da vedere al fine di scoprire il modo in cui costui reinterpreterà, rinnoverà ed arricchirà il segno di Margiela.

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

 

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

 

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

 

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

 

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015, photo by N

 

 

www.10corsocomo.com

Jacket Stella Jean - featuring in Penelope -, dress Stella Jean, skirt Comme des Garçons, hat Penelope archive, photo by N

Jacket Stella Jean – featuring in Penelope -, dress Stella Jean, skirt Comme des Garçons, hat Penelope archive, photo by N

To be in Brescia means to visit Penelope, the renowned boutiques, by the one and only Roberta Valentini (awesome companion of an interludes under the sign of art), it’s a perfect equation, a pleasure and categorical imperative. I was pleased to see the shop windows of the boutique dedicated to Stella Jean and also featured the accessories by Carmina Campus, brand by Ilaria Venturini Fendi promoting the culture of re-use. It’s a habit of store – as Roberta told me – to dedicate the shop window of store to a fashion designer. Naturally we also talked about the talent and intelligence of this fashion designer( of whose work is currently celebrated by a huge exhibition on Italian fashion in London at the Victoria & Albert Museum) making an excrelleny styling work as well as about the status quo of contemporary fashion connected to the moment we are living and issues concerning fashion semiotic. I deeply respect and appreciate Roberta, her vision, her ability to be into the present and future times and also her visionary and passionate spirit, supported by a great concreteness, which has successfully made concrete by her year after year, giving rise to a cathedral of conceptual fashion, showcasing and selling its most refined names (after all as fashion, a product without market doesn’t exist though it’s the most brilliant work embodying art and craftsmanship, it is and becomes nothing without). My visit to this enchanting place, emphasized by the kind collaboration of weather, continued going to Penelopesposa, such a beautiful space – which makes be tempted to get married, also to people like me who never did not consider this chance, thinking about marriage as a contract and love as freedom – where tenderness, refinement and elegance join together and dialogue between themselves, creating a harmony and that creative alchemy which makes it a cathedral to visit and where to come back. I will come back soon there, in this city, little jewel, which gives me as a gift special moments, a lot of kindness, beauty, sweetness and wonderful surprises.

ARTE & MODA A BRESCIA(2): PENELOPESCHI MOMENTI CONCETTUALI

Carmina Campus, photo by N

Carmina Campus, photo by N

 

Essere a  Brescia significa far visita a Penelope, le rinomate boutiques, boutique della sola e unica Roberta Valentini (fantastica compagna di interludi all’ insegna dell’ arte), è una perfetta equazione, un piacere e un imperativo categorico. Mi ha rallegrato vedere che le vetrine della boutique erano dedicate a Stella Jean e avevano quali protagonisti anche gli accessori di Carmina Campus, brand di Ilaria Venturini Fendi che promuove la cultura del riuso. È una consuetudine del negozio dedicate a un determinato fashion designer. Naturalmente abbiamo anche parlato del talento e intelligenza di questa fashion designer che fa un eccellente lavoro di styling (la cui opera è attualmente celebrate da una grande mostra sulla moda italiana a Londra presso il Victoria & Albert Museum) come anche sullo status quo della moda contemporanea , legato al momento che stiamo vivendo e a problematiche inerenti la semiotica della moda. Rispetto profondamente e apprezzo Roberta, la sua visione, la sua capacità di essere proiettata nel tempo, presente e futuro ed anche il suo spirito visionario e ardente, sorretto da una notevole concretezza, che è stato felicemente concretizzato anno dopo anno, dando vita a una cattedrale di moda concettuale che espone e vende i suoi nomi più raffinati (dopo tutto la moda, un prodotto senza un mercato non esiste anche se è il più brillante lavoro che racchiude arte e artigianalità, è e resta nel nulla). La mia visita in questo luogo incantevole, enfatizzato dalla gentile collaborazione del tempo, è proseguita andando da Penelopesposa, luogo estremamente bello – che fa venir voglia di sposarsi, anche a quelli come me  che non hanno mai preso in considerazione questa eventualità, ritenendo che il matrimonio sia un contratto e l’ amore sia libertà – in cui dolcezza, raffinatezza e eleganza si uniscono e dialogano tra di loro, creando un’ armonia e quella alchimia creativa che la rende tale, una cattedrale da visitare e in cui ritornare. Tornerò presto qui, in questa città, piccolo gioiello che mi regala momenti speciali tanta gentilezza, bellezza, tenerezza e meravigliose sorprese.

Stella Jean, photo by N

Stella Jean, photo by N

A sweet little girl conceptual fashion oriented..., photo by N

A sweet little girl conceptual fashion oriented…, photo by N

...and her mother, a Roberta's friend during a shopping interlude, photo by N

…and her mother, a Roberta’s friend during a shopping interlude, photo by N

 

Marting Margiela, photo by N

Marting Margiela, photo by N

 

Dries, van Noten, photo by N

Dries, van Noten, photo by N

 

Penelope, photo by N

Penelope, photo by N

 

My Steven Meisel moment at Penelope, hat Penelope archive, photo by N

My Steven Meisel moment at Penelope, hat Penelope archive, photo by N

 

Steven Meisel, photo by N

Steven Meisel, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Lanvin, photo by N

Lanvin, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Jacket Alexis Mabille, photo by N

Jacket Alexis Mabille, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Comme des Garçons vintage, photo by N

Comme des Garçons vintage, photo by N

 

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

 

Roberta Valentini and me, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

Roberta Valentini and me, photo by Alessandro Boccingher

A calla lily, unexpected gift at the Brescia railway station, given to me by a Florentine woman, photo by N

A calla lily, unexpected gift at the Brescia railway station, given to me by a Florentine woman, photo by N

 

 

www.penelope-store.it