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Jerry Hall, photo by Gian Paolo Barbieri, courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

Jerry Hall, photo by Gian Paolo Barbieri, courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

It has recently opened in Brescia at the Ma.Co. F., the Centre of Italian Photography, the exhibition “Di Moda. Fotografie dal 1950 al 2000”, organized in collaboration with the Brescia Urban Center, featuring the works of renowned fashion photographers as Gian Paolo Barbieri, Giuseppe Palmas, Alfa Castaldi, Oreste Alabiso, Gian Butturini, Beppe Vigasio, Federico Garolla, Giovanni Gastel, Ugo Mulas, Carlo Orsi, Gianni Turillazzi and Maria Vittoria Backhaus, giving rise to a smashing dialogue and telling about fashion, its revolutions inside out the catwalk. They are many stories, enriched by another story, focused on ideas on the move, signs impressed in the Penelope’s archive, the renowned cathedral of conceptual fashion created by the one and only Roberta Valentini. Here it is on show, through 15th January 2017 a selection which is part of the awesome and precious Penelope’s archive. A not to be missed happening to discover and enjoy fashion and its culture, a vibrant, intense and universal tale.

MODA, FOTOGRAFIA EL’ ARCHIVIO DI PENELOPE: LA MOSTRA “DI MODA. FOTOGRAFIE DAL 1950 AL 2000” AL BRESCIA MA.CO.F. DI BRESCIA

photo by Gian Paolo Barbieri, courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

photo by Gian Paolo Barbieri, courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

È stata recentemente inaugurata a Brescia presso il Ma.Co. F., il Centro di Fotografia Italiana, la mostra “Di Moda. Fotografie dal 1950 al 2000”, organizzata in collaborazione con l’ Urban Center di Brescia, di cui sono protagoniste le opere di rinomati fotografi di moda quali Gian Paolo Barbieri, Giuseppe Palmas, Alfa Castaldi, Oreste Alabiso, Gian Butturini, Beppe Vigasio, Federico Garolla, Giovanni Gastel, Ugo Mulas, Carlo Orsi, Gianni Turillazzi e Maria Vittoria Backhaus, che danno vita a un formidabile dialogo e raccontano la moda, le sue rivoluzioni dentro e fuori dalla passerella. Tante storie, arricchite da un’ altra storia, incentrata su idee in movimento, segni impressi nell’ archivio di Penelope, la rinomata cattedrale bresciana di moda concettuale creata dalla sola e unica Roberta Valentini. Ivi é in mostra, fino al 15 gennaio 2017, una selezione che fa parte del fantastico e prezioso archivio di Penelope. Un evento imperdibile per scoprire e apprezzare la moda e la sua cultura, un racconto vibrante, intenso e universale.

Penelope's archive, photo courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

Penelope’s archive, photo courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

 

Penelope's archive, photo courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

Penelope’s archive, photo courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

 

 

Comme Des Garçons, from Penelope's archive, photo courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

Comme Des Garçons, from Penelope’s archive, photo courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

 

Vivienne Westwood, from Penelope's archive, photo courtesy of Alessandro Bocingher

Vivienne Westwood, from Penelope’s archive, photo courtesy of Alessandro Bocingher

 

The one and only Roberta Valentini along with Marcelo Burlon, photo courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

The one and only Roberta Valentini along with Marcelo Burlon, photo courtesy of Alessandro Boccingher

 

www.penelope-store.it

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Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

A political message, impressed on a video: “free Assange”, a paradigm, the freedom, being the leitmotiv of thought and work by the legendary British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood, joins to the gender fluidity, categorical imperative which has successfully developed in the Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2017 collection, recently presented during the Milan Fashion Week. Fluid lines caressing the silhouette draw together and confuse the man with the woman. Jersey dresses and colored sweaters talk about comfort, freedom and consciousness. The outfits are tight as well as comfortable, as the coverall, large, long skirts embody light colored floral prints. The palette of colors include natural nuances along green, blue, light blue, pink and white. Stripes, transparencies, meshes and flowers are some of the patterns featuring in this fun collection.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MAN: LIBERTÀ & FLUIDITÀ DEL GENDER

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Un messaggio politico, impresso in un video, “free Assange”, un paradigma, la libertà, leitmotiv del pensiero e dell’ opera della leggendaria fashion designer inglese Vivienne Westwood, si unisce alla fluidità del gender, imperativo categorico che è stato felicemente consolidato nella collezione Vivienne Westwood Man primavera/estate 2017, recentemente presentata in occasione della fashion week milanese. Linee fluide che carezzano la silhouette avvicinano e confondono l’ uomo con la donna. Abiti di jersey e maglie colorate parlano di  comfort, libertà e consapevolezza. Gli outfits sono aderenti e anche comodi come la tuta, larghe gonne lunghe che racchiudono colori tenui e stampe colorate. La palette di colori include tonalità naturali unitamente a verde, blu, celeste, rosa e bianco. Righe, trasparenze, reti e fiori sono alcuni dei motivi protagonisti di questa divertente collezione.

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

Vivienne Westwood along with the models at the backstage of fashion show, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood along with the models at the backstage of fashion show, photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

 

 

www.viviennewestwood.com

 

photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

photo courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

It debuts during the Milan design week the brand Stories of Italy successfully joining art, craftsmanship, design made in Italy and giving rise to a precious collection of trays, sculptures and vases – made of Carrara marble and Murano glass – that are on show in the Milan Vivienne Westwood boutiques placed in Corso Venezia 25 and Via Vincenzo Capelli 4. Marvelous home accessories as the “Dattero” series of Murano vases and “Bramante rosa” marble trays. A not to be missed happening to enjoy the aesthetics of a legendary fashion designer, the queen of punk and the excellence of made in Italy.

IL DEBUTTO DI STORIES OF ITALY: ARTE, ARTIGIANALITÀ & DESIGN ALLE BOUTIQUE DI MILANO DI VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

photo courtesy of Cesare Biraghi

photo courtesy of Cesare Biraghi

Debutta in occasione della settimana del design di Milano il marchio Stories of Italy che felicemente unisce arte, artigianalità, design made in Italy e dà vita a una preziosa collezione di vassoi, sculture e vasi – realizzati in marmo di Carrara e vetro di Murano – che sono esposte presso le boutique di Milano di Vivienne Westwood boutique ubicate in Corso Venezia 25 ed in Via Vincenzo Capelli 4. Meravigliosi accessori per la casa quali la serie “Dattero” di vasi in vetro di Murano ed i vassoi di marmo “Bramante rosa”. Un evento imperdibile per apprezzare l’ estetica di una leggendaria fashion designer, la regina del punk e l’ eccellenza del made in Italy.

Stories of Italy, photo courtesy of Davide Corrado

Stories of Italy, photo courtesy of Davide Corrado

 

Stories of Italy, photo courtesy of Davide Corrado

Stories of Italy, photo courtesy of Davide Corrado

 

Stories of Italy, photo courtesy of Davide Corrado

Stories of Italy, photo courtesy of Davide Corrado

 

Stories of Italy, photo courtesy of Davide Corrado

Stories of Italy, photo courtesy of Davide Corrado

 

 

 

http://storiesofitaly.com

www.viviennewestwood.com

Madonna Blond Ambition Corset by Jean-Paul Gaultier

Madonna Blond Ambition Corset by Jean-Paul Gaultier

It will be held in London at the Victoria & Albert Museum from 16th April 2016 to 12th March 2017 Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear”, the exhibition, organized in collaboration with Revlon and the luxury lingerie brand Agent Provocateur (established in 1994 by the brilliant Joseph Corré , son of Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren and Serena Rees when we were married), puts the light on the evolution of underwear design from 18th –century to the present times, featuring over 200 items of underwear for men and women under the sign of innovation and luxury. The creations by fashions designers as Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood, La Perla, Jean-Paul Gaultier,  Paul Smith, Rigby & Peller explore the relationship between underwear and fashion (a clear track of all that is impressed in the punk, post-punk, new-Romantic dress-code since the Eighties and come back in  the Nineties under different interpretations, from the lyricism of Hussein Chalayan to the baroque by Gianni Versace, something which is and stays), talking about the notions of ideal body and the ways that cut, fit, fabric and decoration can reveal issues of gender, sex and morality. A not to be missed happening for all the ones who are devoted to the charme of lingerie.

“UNDRESSED: A BRIEF HISTORY OF UNDERWEAR” AL MUSEO VICTORIA & ALBERT DI LONDRA

Si terrà a Londra presso il Museo Victoria & Albert di Londra dal 16 aprile 2016 al 12 marzo 2017 Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear”, la mostra, organizzata in collaborazione con Revlon e il marchio di lingerie di lusso Agent Provocateur (fondato nel 1994 dal brillante Joseph Corré, figlio di Vivienne Westwood e Malcom McLaren e da Serena Rees quando erano sposati), racconta l’ evoluzione del design in materia di biancheria intima dal 18° secolo a oggi che ha quali protagonisti più di 200 capi di underwear per uomini e donne all’ insegna di innovazione e lusso. Le creazioni di fashions designer quali Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood, La Perla, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Paul Smith, Rigby & Peller esplorano la relazione tra biancheria intima e moda (una nitida traccia di tutto ciò è impressa nel dress-code punk, post-punk, new-Romantic a partire dagli anni Ottanta e ritorna negli anni Novanta sotto forma di svariate interpretazioni: il lirismo di  Hussein Chalayan, il barocco di Gianni Versace e molte altre,  qualcosa che c’è e resta ancora oggi), parla delle nozioni di corpo ideale e i modi in cui il taglio, la vestibilità, il materiale e i decori possono rivelare questioni inerenti il gender, sesso e la moralità. Un evento imperdibile per tutti coloro che sono devoti al fascino della lingerie.

Fashion photograph, Lilian Bassman, 1948.Museum no. PH.14-1986. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Fashion photograph, Lilian Bassman, 1948.Museum no. PH.14-1986. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

 

 

Cage crinoline, Unknown, ca.1868. Museum no. T.195-1984. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Cage crinoline, Unknown, ca.1868. Museum no. T.195-1984. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

 

 

 

 

 

 

www.vam.ac.uk

Leigh Bowery, photo by Ole Christiansen

Leigh Bowery, photo by Ole Christiansen

26th March would have been the birthday of Leigh Bowery (who passed away in 1994), genius and legendary Australian performer artist, club promoter, actor, pop star, model, and fashion designer (also for the Michael Clark Dance Company), based in London and was part of London Blitz Kids, New York City Michael Alig’s Club Kids and founder along with Boy George in 1985 of Taboo Club during the times of new-romantic movement. Today I remember him who is considered one of the more influential figures in the 1980s and 1990s London and New York City art and fashion circles, influencing a generation of artists and designers. His influence reached through the fashion, club and art worlds to impact, amongst others, Meadham Kirchhoff, Alexander McQueen, Lucian Freud, Vivienne Westwood, Boy George, Antony and the Johnsons, John Galliano, Gareth Pugh, Rick Owens, the Scissor Sisters, David LaChapelle, Lady Bunny along with many bands and nightclubs in London and New York City which arguably perpetuated his avant-garde ideas featuring the grotesque as non-conventional standard of beauty. Many are the books, documentary films, exhibitions and the permanent collections at Museums that celebrate his sign, that visionary attitude going beyond time and energy I love and pay homage always and forever.

LEIGH BOWERY: SEMPRE & PER SEMPRE

Leigh Bowery, photo by Nick Knight

Leigh Bowery, photo by Nick Knight

Il 26 marzo sarebbe stato il compleanno di Leigh Bowery (venuto a mancare nel 1994), geniale e leggendario performer artist australiano, club promoter, attore, pop star, modello e fashion designer(anche per la Michael Clark Dance Company) che ha vissuto a Londra ed ha fatto parte dei Blitz Kids di Londra, dei Club Kids di Michael Alig a New York ed ha fondato con Boy George nel 1985 il famoso locale Taboo ai tempi del movimento new-romantic. Oggi ricordo lui che è considerato una delle figure più emblematiche, avendo influenzato una generazione di artisti e designer. La sua influenza é giunta attraverso il mondo della moda, dei locali notturni e dell’ arte  per avere impatto, tra gli altri, su Meadham Kirchhoff, Alexander McQueen, Lucian Freud, Vivienne Westwood, Boy George, Antony and the Johnsons, John Galliano, Gareth Pugh, Rick Owens, the Scissor Sisters, David LaChapelle, Lady Bunny unitamente a svariati gruppi e locali notturni a Londra e New York City che presumibilmente hanno perpetrato le sue avveniristiche idee di cui è protagonista il grottesco quale, anticonvenzionale e sovversivo standard di bellezza. Molteplici sono i libri, i documentari, le mostre e le collezioni permanenti nei musei che celebrano il suo segno, quell’ estro visionario oltre il tempo ed energia che amo e a cui rendo omaggio sempre e per sempre.

Leigh Bowery and Lucien Freud working on his portrait

Leigh Bowery and Lucien Freud working on his portrait

 

Leigh Bowery by Lucien Freud, 1991, Tate Modern

Leigh Bowery by Lucien Freud, 1991, Tate Modern

 

Leigh Bowery/Alexander McQueen

Leigh Bowery/Alexander McQueen

 

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

 

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

 

Leigh Bowery/ Alexander McQueen

Leigh Bowery/ Alexander McQueen

 

 

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

 

Leigh Bowery/John Galliano

Leigh Bowery/John Galliano

 

Leigh Bowery/John Galliano

Leigh Bowery/John Galliano

 

John Galliano

John Galliano

 

Leigh Bowery/Jean Paul Gaultier

Leigh Bowery/Jean Paul Gaultier

 

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

 

Leigh Bowery/Gareth Pugh

Leigh Bowery/Gareth Pugh

 

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh

 

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh

 

Leigh Bowery/Margiela

Leigh Bowery/Margiela

 

Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2013

Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2013

 

Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela

 

Margiela

Margiela

 

Leigh Bowery/Michael Clark

Leigh Bowery/Michael Clark

 

 

photo by Sølve Sundsbø

photo by Sølve Sundsbø

 

Boy George

Boy George

 

Boy George and Leigh Bowery at the Taboo

Boy George and Leigh Bowery at the Taboo

 

Beth Ditto

Beth Ditto

 

Leigh Bowery & Nicola Bateman/ Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2016

Leigh Bowery & Nicola Bateman/ Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2016

 

Costume for a female performer designed by Leigh Bowery and made by Mr Pearl for 1987 dance performance, "Because We Must" by Michael Clark Dance Company (Victoria & Albert Museum Collections)

Costume for a female performer designed by Leigh Bowery and made by Mr Pearl for 1987 dance performance, “Because We Must” by Michael Clark Dance Company (Victoria & Albert Museum Collections)

 

book

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Politicians are criminals”, a campaign turned into slogans features in the Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016 collection which has recently presented in Milan during the Milan Fashion Week. This is the categorical imperative of the legendary British fashion designer and activist – who focused her social commitment on freedom and protection of environment, more specifically the climate change – “to keep saying it” – as she says – “until it becomes automatic”. The queen of punk thinks “these criminals cause climate change, this means mass extinction of the life forms of our planet”. The strength of this message, launched in order to build the awareness of a concrete danger, becomes fashion. It’s an unusual tale where the male elegance dyes with English eccentricity and meets a hot Mediterranean sun. The lines are fluid, constructions reinterpret the celebrated Westwood’s sign, made of assertiveness and irony. Light fabrics, natural textures and prints, including the ones featuring the roulette, appearing on the t-shirts and representing the campaign she launched along with other ones that are influenced by British interiors, over-printed tartan, floral patterns and tiger stripes. It’s a complex universe enriched by a fun unisex knitwear and colored accessories successfully embodying a vibrant aesthetics and a healthy ethic.

MODA & ATTIVISMO: “POLITICIANS ARE CRIMINALS”, LA CAMPAGNA PROTAGONISTA DELLA COLLEZIONE UOMO DI VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Politicians are criminals”(che equivale a “I politici sono criminali”) è una campagna che si trasforma in slogan protagonista della collezione uomo primavera/estate 2016 di Westwood Man, recentemente presentata a Milano in occasione della Milan Fashion Week. Questo, l’ imperativo categorico della leggendaria fashion designer inglese e attivista – che ha rivolto il suo impegno sociale alla libertà e alla protezione dell’ ambiente, più specificamente al cambiamento climatico – “continuare a dirlo” – come sostiene – “finché non diviene automatico”: La regina del punk ritiene che “questi criminali siano la causa del cambiamento climatico, ciò implica l’ estinzione totale di ogni forma di vita esistente nel nostro pianeta”. La forza di questo messaggio, lanciato al fine di costruire la consapevolezza di un pericolo concreto, diventa moda. È un racconto insolito in cui l’eleganza maschile si tinge di eccentricità inglese e incontra il calore del sole del Mediterraneo. Le linee sono fluide, le costruzioni reinterpretano il celebre segno della Westwood, fatto di assertività e ironia. Materiali leggeri, textures naturali e stampe che comprendono le ruote della roulette che appaiono su t-shirt e rappresentano la campagna da lei portata avanti, unitamente ad altre che sono influenzate dagli interni inglesi, tartan ultra-stampato, motivi floreali e tigrati. Un universo composito che é arricchito da una divertente maglieria unisex e colorati accessori che racchiudono felicemente una vibrante estetica e una salubre etica.

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

Vivienne Westwood Man Spring/Summer 2016

 

 

www.viviennewestwood.com

 Vivienne Westwood 10th Season Made in Africa Bag x Ethical Fashion Initiative

Vivienne Westwood 10th Season Made in Africa Bag x Ethical Fashion Initiative, photo courtesy of ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative

 

The legendary British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood celebrates the successful continuation of the successful partnership with the Ethical Fashion Initiative( she started five years ago), a laudable project launched by the ITC (International Trade Centre an UN Agency working in the realm of ethical fashion to emancipate the Africa people from poverty through the work and its training) with a limited edition of Africa bags collection, made by artisans in Kenya. Over the past five years the involvement of the fashion designer has supported thousands of micro-producers from marginalized communities in these regions, developing their artisan skills and improving their financial prospects. This has promoted the growth of sustainable business instead of aid dependency. Craftsmanship and ideas on the move are impressed in the Africa bags that resonate with the activism of the queen of punk, are embodied in more the design, materials used  that raise questions on critical issues such as climate change and waste.

UNA COLORATA CELEBRAZIONE: LA DECIMA PARTNERSHIP DI VIVIENNE WESTWOOD CON L’ ITC

Vivienne Westwood x Ethical Fashion Initiative 10th Anniversary bag made in Kenya

Vivienne Westwood x Ethical Fashion Initiative 10th Anniversary bag made in Kenya, photo courtesy of ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative

La leggendaria fashion designer inglese Vivienne Westwood celebrate la felice prosecuzione della partnership con l’ Ethical Fashion Initiative (da lei avviata cinque anni fa), un lodevole progetto lanciato dall’ ITC (Centro del Commercio Internazionale Trade Centre un’ Agenzia dell’ ONU che opera nell’ ambito della moda ethical per emancipare le popolazioni dell’ Africa dalla povertà attraverso il lavoro e la sua formazione) con  una limited edition  della collezione di Africa bags, realizzate da artigiani in Kenya. Nell’ arco di cinque anni il coinvolgimento della stilista ha sostenuto migliaia di micro-produttori provenienti da comunità che vivono ai margini in queste regioni, consolidando il loro talento da artigiani e migliorando la loro situazione finanziaria. Ciò ha promosso la crescita di un’ impresa sostenibile, diversamente dalla dipendenza derivante dagli aiuti umanitari. Artigianalità e idee in movimento sono impresse nelle Africa bags che risuonano dell’ attivismo della regina del, racchiuse nel design e nei materiali usati che si interrogano su problematiche critiche quali il cambiamento climatico e i rifiuti.

The Kenya Ethical Fashion Iniatiative Artisans Theme, photo courtesy of Louis Sideri &  ITC

The Kenya Ethical Fashion Iniatiative Artisans Team, photo courtesy of Louis Sideri & ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative

 

Vivienne Westwood x Ethical Fashion Initiative 10th Anniversary bag made in Kenya, photo courtesy ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative

Vivienne Westwood x Ethical Fashion Initiative 10th Anniversary bag made in Kenya, an artisan working, photo courtesy ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative

 

Vivienne Westwood and Team visit Kenya with Ethical Fashion Initiative,  photo courtesy of ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative

Vivienne Westwood and Team visit Kenya with Ethical Fashion Initiative, photo courtesy of ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative

 

www.ethicalfashioninitiative.org

www.viviennewestwood.com

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

Baroque suggestions, a magic world featuring angels, fauns, satyrs and nymphs, devils and courtesans. All that is embodied in the work and life of Raja Schwahn-Reichmann, bright restorer, painter, sculptor and collector of antique costumes. The Viennese artist, awarded in 2009 for her work and her picturesque life with the Italian art Mantegna Prize, has successfully made concrete the Nietzschean imperative, making her life an artwork. Visiting the Milanese house of my dear friend Stephan Hamel, I recently ran into the marvelous decorative works she made and I had the chance to see and appreciate the transformations of di Raja, caught on photo. Elegance, irony, provocation, art and a detailed reconstruction and reinterpretation of atmospheres and ages is what shines in the work by this artist of whose name since many years is strictly connected to the Life Ball – charity event which is held in Vienna at the Rathausplatz, joins art, fashion and supports the fight against HIV – where Raja curates its set design. The works she made for 2014 Life Ball edition of whose theme is “the garden of delights giardino” will be seen tonight also via streaming by the Austrian TV channel OrftvThek which will broadcast the event featuring Conchita Wurst, Ricky Martin and for the first time a menswear fashion show, curated by L’ Uomo Vogue which will include celebrated names of fashion scene as Givenchy, Viktor & Rolf, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Etro and Dsquared2. A not to be missed happening to enjoy art and fashion and the genius of Raja Schwahn-Reichmann.

L’ ARTE, ELEGANZA & IRONIA DI RAJA SCHWAHN-REICHMANN

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

Suggestioni barocche, un magico mondo di angeli, fauni, satiri e ninfe, diavoli e cortigiane. Tutto ciò è racchiuso nell’ opera e nella vita di Raja Schwahn-Reichmann, brillante restauratrice, pittrice, illustratrice, scultrice e collezionista di costumi d’ epoca. L’ artista viennese, insignita nel 2009 per il suo lavoro e la sua pittoresca vita del Premio di arte italiana Mantegna, ha felicemente concretizzato l’ imperativo nietzschiano, rendendo la sua vita un’ opera d’ arte. Visitando la dimora milanese del mio caro amico Stephan Hamel, recentemente mi sono imbattuta nelle sue meravigliose opere decorative e ho anche avuto modo di osservare e ammirare le trasformazioni di Raja, immortalate su fotografia. Eleganza, ironia, provocazione, arte e una minuziosa ricostruzione e reinterpretazione di atmosfere ed epoche è ciò che splende nell’ opera di questa artista il cui nome è da anni strettamente legato al Life Ball – evento di beneficienza che si tiene a Vienna presso la Rathausplatz, unisce arte, moda e supporta la lotta contro l’ HIV – di cui Raja cura le scenografie. I suoi lavori per l’ edizione 2014 del Life Ball, il cui tema è “il giardino dei piaceri”, saranno visibili stasera anche via streaming per il tramite della rete televisiva austriaca OrftvThek  che trasmetterà l’ evento di cui saranno protagonisti Conchita Wurst, Ricky Martin e per la prima volta una sfilata di abbigliamento uomo, curata da L’ Uomo Vogue che includerà celebri nomi della moda quali Givenchy, Viktor & Rolf, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Etro e Dsquared2. Un evento imperdibile per apprezzare arte e moda e il genio di Raja Schwahn-Reichmann.

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The atmospheres by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

A detail of work by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

A detail of work by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The transformations by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The transformations by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The transformations by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The transformations by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The transformations by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

The transformations by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

The decorative works by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann at the Stephan Hamel's house

The decorative works by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann at the Stephan Hamel’s house

 

An afternoon Epicurean interlude at Stephan Hamel's house, featuring Enrico Quinto and Stephan, framed by the decorative work made by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

An afternoon Epicurean interlude at Stephan Hamel’s house, featuring Enrico Quinto and Stephan, framed by the decorative work made by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

Enrico Quinto and me at the Stephan Hamel's house, framed by a furniture I love, the screen by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

Enrico Quinto and me at the Stephan Hamel’s house, framed by a furniture I love, the screen by Raja Schwahn-Reichmann

 

 

http://schwahnreichmann.wordpress.com

revisioni_invito_social

It will be opened on 4th April 2014 at 6 pm in Venice at the Spazio Punch “Re-visioni: esercizi a partire da una study collection”(standing as “Re-visions: exercises arising from a study collection”), exhibition organized by the Culture of Project Research Unit “The design in fashion” of Iuav University of Venice, in collaboration with the Venice Fondazione Musei Civici-Palazzo Moncenigo, curated by Gabriele Monti teaming with the students of third year of Fashion Design Course from the Iuav University of Venice. The name of exhibition – which will run through 29th April 2014 – evokes the gesture of seeing again, catching the unseen details. A smashing display of fashion from Eighties to contemporary times, including creatives as Jean Paul Gaultier, Giorgio Armani, Romeo Gigli, Comme des Garçons, Emilio Pucci, Norma Kamali, Maison Martin Margiela, Complice, Byblos, Irié, Claude Montana, Yohji Yamamoto, Moschino, Sybilla, Junya Watanabe, Vivienne Westwood, Prada, creations coming from the private collection of Maria Luisa Frisa, director of BA Fashion Design Course at Iuav. This exhibition has been the chance of giving rise to reproductions on canvas of items that are here showcased, made by the students, a modeling work which is part of exhibition path and emphasizes a different way of observing the dress, as study and design. It completes the exhibition the ephemera, ephemeral objects as invitations to attend at events, fashion shows and performances, press- releases, lookbooks and other materials as catalogues telling the work by fashion designers. A not to be missed event under the sign of fashion culture.

 

“RE-VISIONI: ESERCIZI A PARTIRE DA UNA STUDY COLLECTION” ALLO SPAZIO PUNCH DI VENEZIA

Jacket by Moschino( late Eighties), Maria Luisa Frisa Collection

Jacket Moschino( late Eighties), Maria Luisa Frisa Collection

Sarà inaugurata il 4 aprile 2014 alle ore 18:00 a Venezia presso lo Spazio Punch “Re-visioni: esercizi a partire da una study collection”, mostra organizzata dal Dipartimento di Cultura del Progetto Unita di Ricerca “Il progetto nella moda” dell’ Università Iuav di Venezia, in collaborazione con la Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia-Palazzo Moncenigo, curata da Gabriele Monti in collaborazione con gli studenti del terzo anno del Corso di Laurea in Fashion Design dell’ Università Iuav di Venezia. Il nome della mostra – che proseguirà fino al 29aprile 2014 – evoca il gesto del rivedere, catturando i dettagli che non erano stati visti. Una formidabile esposizione di moda dagli anni Ottanta alla contemporaneità, comprensiva delle opere di creativi quali Jean Paul Gaultier, Giorgio Armani, Romeo Gigli, Comme des Garçons, Emilio Pucci, Norma Kamali, Maison Martin Margiela, Complice, Byblos, Irié, Claude Montana, Yohji Yamamoto, Moschino, Sybilla, Junya Watanabe, Vivienne Westwood, Prada, creazioni provenienti dalla collezione privata di Maria Luisa Frisa, direttore del Corso di Laurea Triennale di Fashion Design della Iuav. Questa mostra è stata la felice occasione di dar vita a riproduzioni dei modelli esposti su tela, realizzate dagli studenti, un lavoro di modellistica che fa parte del percorso espositivo e sottolinea un modo diverso di osservare l’ abito, quale studio e progetto. Completano la mostra le ephemera, oggetti effimeri quali inviti a eventi, sfilate e performances, comunicati stamp, lookbooks ed altri materiali quali cataloghi che raccontano l’ opera dei fashion designers. Un evento imperdibile all’ insegna della cultura della moda.

Suit by Giorgio Armani, Fall/Winter 1998-1999, Maria Luisa Frisa Collection

Suit Giorgio Armani, Fall/Winter 1998-1999, Maria Luisa Frisa Collection

 

Suit by Emilio Pucci from Mid-Nineties, Maria Luisa Frisa Collection

Suit Emilio Pucci from Mid-Nineties, Maria Luisa Frisa Collection

 

Jacket by Prada Spring/Summer 1998, Maria Luisa Frisa Collection

Jacket Prada Spring/Summer 1998, Maria Luisa Frisa Collection

 

Moschino, Fall/Winter 1987-1988, photo by Francesco de Luca

Moschino, Fall/Winter 1987-1988, photo by Francesco de Luca

 

Complice, late Eighties, Maria Luisa Frisa Collection, photo by Francesco de Luca

Complice, late Eighties, Maria Luisa Frisa Collection, photo by Francesco de Luca

 

From the left to the right side: Jacket Norma Kamali, late Eighties; suit Giorgio Armani, early Nineties; suit Emilio Pucci, late Sixties; Maria Luisa Frisa collection, photo by Francesco de Luca

From the left to the right side: Jacket Norma Kamali, late Eighties; suit Giorgio Armani, early Nineties; suit Emilio Pucci, late Sixties; Maria Luisa Frisa collection, photo by Francesco de Luca

 

Ephemera

Ephemera

 

 

www.spaziopunch.com

www.iuav.it

Isabella Blow, photo courtesy of Somerset House

Isabella Blow, photo courtesy of Somerset House

It touched me to read the piece by Andrew O’ Hagan, appeared today on T magazine, the blog by New York Times, announcing the exhibition “Isabella Bow, Fashion Galore!”, organized by the Isabella Blow Foundation in collaboration with the Central Saint Martins which will be held in London at the Somerset House from the 20th November 2013 to 2nd March 2014. The article I am glad to share with you dear FBFers features a private memory of Isabella Blow told by Jeremy Langmead along with precious remarks about the essence of eccentricity, its core, what separates style and uniqueness from fashion, what represents an icon, a dandy and distinguishes it from an aesthete, modern Des Esseintes (leading character of “Against the grain”, the novel by Joris-Karl Huysmans) with more or less successful results in terms of surface(though the surface often justifies and substitutes the lack of contents and ideas). Genuineness in the way of being, thinking, acting and doing. That is the way I remember and celebrate Isabella Blow, a real eccentric, her work, as well as the one made by others legendary eccentrics as Vivienne Westwood, Leigh Bowery, Anna Piaggi, Yves Saint Laurent and Quentin Crisp who gave us a lot in terms of emotions and ideas, ways to look at reality, to be, by considering another side, using another point of view, nullifying the clichés of conventional way of thinking.

The meaning of a true eccentric isn’t in the costume — it’s in the soul.

Jeremy Langmead tells a memorable story about Isabella Blow. “Imagine the office at News International, all the male journalists sitting around in shirt sleeves,” Langmead says. Now the editor in chief of the online men’s wear retailer Mr Porter, Langmead was the editor who hired Isabella Blow as fashion director of the Sunday Times Style Magazine in London in 1997. “In comes Isabella wearing giant mink antlers sticking out from the top of a coat. It was absolutely about who she was in her soul. At lunchtime she would sit among all the printers, eating her roast beef dressed like that, as if it was the most natural thing in the world.”

The outlandish, deeply unusual former assistant at Vogue who became mentor to a generation of fashion designers, editors and photographers, Isabella Blow is the subject of a new exhibition set amid the Neo-Classical splendor of London’s Somerset House. The surroundings are appropriate, for this is not just a show but an acknowledgement of how her sense of style opened the minds of her peers. She is hereby raised into the pantheon, lauded for the very personal vision that once disgusted the establishment.

Blow was eccentric from her top feathers to the paint that adorned her toes. I used to see her at parties sometimes, and she was a fantastically alarming person; when she smiled, throwing her head back, you saw a sneering mouth so red with lipstick that it was like an open wound. She never seemed like just another one of the fashion crowd: she was a visionary who ripened with new ideas every morning, not every season, and was a genuine muse in a world of phonies.

Leigh Bowery, photo by Nick Knight

Leigh Bowery, photo by Nick Knight

Yves Saint Laurent, photo by Richard Avedon

Yves Saint Laurent, photo by Richard Avedon

Quentin Crisp, photo courtesy of  Crisperanto: the Quentin Crisp Archives (crisperanto.org)

Quentin Crisp, photo courtesy of Crisperanto: the Quentin Crisp Archives (crisperanto.org)

True eccentrics — the Isabella Blows, the Vivienne Westwoods, the Anna Piaggis and the Stephen Tennants, as if there could ever be more than one of each — are the kind of people whose entire existence is devoted to individuality and innovation. That’s what makes a real eccentric: they really mean it, and they’re willing to suffer for it. Their social function is to explode our preconceptions about what beauty is and what good taste means. Eccentrics raise the bar on the impossible.

Yet, unfortunately, there are a few too many fake ones out there now. These are the imitators, the publicity scavengers, the ones who think it’s merely about fame or attention. They seem to be working not from a brilliant fund of ideas or from a conviction that their outer selves must be used to express a fascinating inner landscape. On the contrary, they’re just showoffs who dress up for the cameras. For people interested in our contemporary times, this is an important distinction: the true eccentric gives us more mystery, more wonder about being human, a new side to beauty, while the faux-eccentric gives us less of everything.

ECCENTRICITÀ & AUTENTICITÀ COME STILE DI VITA: ISABELLA BLOW

Isabella Blow, photo by Sean Ellis, courtesy of tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/

Isabella Blow, photo by Sean Ellis, courtesy of tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/

Mi ha emozionato leggere il pezzo di Andrew O’ Hagan, apparso oggi su T magazine, il blog del New York Times che annuncia la mostra “Isabella Bow, Fashion Galore!”, organizzata dalla Isabella Blow Foundation in collaborazione con la Central Saint Martins che si terrà a Londra presso la Somerset House dal 20 novembre 2013 al 2 marzo 2014. L’ articolo che sono lieta di condividere con voi, cari FBFers, ha quale protagonista un ricordo Isabella Blow raccontato Jeremy Langmead unitamente a preziose delucidazioni sull’ essenza dell’ eccentricità, il suo cuore, ciò che separa lo stile e l’ unicità dalla moda, ciò che rappresenta un icona, un dandy e lo distingue da un esteta, dai moderni Des Esseintes ( protagonista di “A ritroso”, il romanzo di Joris-Karl Huysmans) con più o meno felici risultati in termini di superficie (benché la superficie spesso giustifichi e sostituisca la mancanza di contenuti ed idee). Genuinità nell’ essere, pensare, agire e fare. Così mi piace ricordare e celebrare Isabella Blow, una vera eccentrica, il suo lavoro e quello di altri leggendari eccentrici quali Vivienne Westwood, Leigh Bowery, Anna Piaggi, Yves Saint Laurent e Quentin Crisp che ci hanno dato tanto in termini di emozione ed idee, modi di guardare la realtà, di essere, considerando un’ altra dimensione, avvalendosi di un altro punto di vista, vanificando i clichés del pensiero convenzionale.

Il significato di un vero eccentrico non si trova nell’ abito – è nell’ anima.

Jeremy Langmead racconta una memorabile storia su Isabella Blow. “Immagina l’ufficio di News International, tutti i giornalisti uomini che bighellonano in camicia,” Langmead racconta. Adesso l’ editor in chief del rivenditore di abbigliamento uomo Mr Porter, Langmead era l’ editore che ha assunto Isabella Blow come fashion director del Sunday Times Style Magazine a Londra nel 1997. “Entra Isabella che indossa  gigantesche corna di visone che spuntano fuori dalla parte superiore di un cappotto. Assolutamente era tutta una questione di chi ella fosse nella sua anima. All’ ora di pranzo stava seduta in mezzo a tutti i tipografi, a mangiare il suo roast beef condito in quel modo, come se fosse la cosa più naturale al mondo.”

La stravagante, profondamente fuori dal comune ex assistente di Vogue che è diventata il mentore di una generazione di fashion designers, editori e fotografi, Isabella Blow è il soggetto di una nuova mostra allestita tra lo splendore neoclassico della Somerset House di Londra. Gli ambienti sono appropriati, per ciò che non è soltanto una mostra, ma un riconoscimento di come il suo senso di stile abbia aperto le menti dei suoi pari. È con questo elevata all’ interno del pantheon, lodata per la sua personale visione che una volta disgustava l’ establishment.

La Blow era una eccentrica dalla cima delle sue piume al colore che adornava le dita dei piedi.  Ero solito incontrarla alle feste qualche volta ed era una persona fantasticamente allarmante, quando sorrideva, sbattendo indietro la testa, vedevi una bocca beffarda talmente rossa di rossetto che sembrava una ferita aperta. Non era mai simile a nessun altro della gente della moda: era una visionaria che maturava nuove idee ogni giorno, non ogni stagione, ed era una musa vera in un mondo di falsi.

Vivienne Westwood, photo courtesy viviennewestwood.co.uk

Vivienne Westwood, photo courtesy viviennewestwood.co.uk

Anna Piaggi, photo by N

Anna Piaggi, photo by N

I veri eccentrici — le Isabella Blow, le Vivienne Westwood, le Anna Piaggi e gli Stephen Tennant, come se ci potesse mai essere più di uno di loro – sono il tipo di persone la cui intera esistenza è dedicata all’ individualità e all’ innovazione. Questo è ciò che rende tale un vero eccentrico: essi intendono davvero ciò e sono disposti a soffrire per questo. La loro funzione sociale è distruggere i nostri preconcetti su ciò che la bellezza sia e su ciò che si intenda per buon gusto. Gli eccentrici alzano il tiro sull’ impossibile.

Finora, sfortunatamente, ce ne è qualcuno, troppi i finti che sono adesso là fuori. Questi sono gli imitatori, i predatori di pubblicità, quelli che pensano che sia meramente una questione di fama o attenzione. Sembrano intenti a operare non partendo da un brillante deposito di idee o dalla convinzione che la loro esteriorità debba essere usata per esprimere un affascinante panorama interiore. Al contrario sono soltanto gente che si esibisce, si veste per esporsi dinanzi ai flash delle macchine fotografiche. Per la gente interessata alla nostra contemporaneità, questo è un importante tratto distintivo: il vero eccentrico ci regala più mistero, più meraviglia riguardo all’ essere umano, una nuova dimensione di bellezza, mentre i finti eccentrici ci regalano meno di tutto.”

http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com

http://www.somersethouse.org.uk