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William Burroughs featuring in the Penelope's show window, photo by N

William Burroughs featuring in the Penelope’s show window, photo by N

I recently visited in Brescia the smashing cathedral of conceptual fashion Penelope, created by the brilliant and vibrant Roberta Valentini. Vibrations meeting themselves as William Burroughs featuring in the shop-windows of boutique, being this year and this month the centenary of his birth, persona immediately making me think about the cut-up (literary technique he created along with the visual artist Brion Gysin, embodied in the marvelous book “The third mind”, which has found a new context in fashion, becoming the theme of “Urban cut-up”, the Fall/Winter 2014-2015 capsule collection by L. Rousseau, young, talented fashion designer). It was sales time, thus I couldn’t enjoy most of choices made by Roberta. Nevertheless it was clear and visible her unique taste and visions I appreciate and share: one for all is Comme des Garçons along with Yohji Yamamoto, Lanvin, Vionnet, Azzedine Alaia, including also contemporary creatives as well as  young contemporary creatives as Simone Rainer, Benedetta Bruzziches, Stella Jean and Fausto Puglisi. Fashion and new ideas, as sustainaibility, made concrete by the bags by Carmina Campus, brand created by the pioneer Ilaria Venturini Fendi, promoting the culture of re-use. An amazing interlude has been the visit to Penelope Sposa, bridal boutique which feels like getting married (also for the ones who – like me – are allergic to wedding, as – Domenico Modugno sang – “it does not bind a dream by a contract”). Here I also ran into a very beautiful, future spouse who was choosing her dress and was dressed by Penelope from the head to feet. Minimalism, conceptual elegance, sophistication and refinement, those are the alchemies of Penelope. A temple to visit and come back. I will come back soon to enjoy the companion of Roberta, her assertive individuality and wisdom I love and celebrate and hopefully also to see her hidden treasures, her rich fashion archives, a genuine fashion encyclopedia of conceptual fashion, source of culture and precious suggestions.

PENELOPE: QUANDO LA MODA É CULTURA E UNO STILE DI VITA

The first thing I saw at Penelope, the bag by Carmina Campus

The first thing I saw at Penelope, the bag by Carmina Campus

Ho recentemente fatto visita a Brescia alla formidabile cattedrale di moda concettuale Penelope, creata dalla brillante e vibrante Roberta Valentini. Vibrazioni che si incontrano come William Burroughs, protagonista delle vetrine della boutique, il cui centenario ricorre quest’ anno, personaggio che mi fa subito pensare al cut-up (tecnica letteraria da lui creata unitamente all’ artista Brion Gysin, racchiusa nel meraviglioso libro “The third mind”, che ha trovato un nuovo contesto nella moda, divenendo il tema di “Urban cut-up”, la collezione capsule autunno/inverno 2014-2015 di L. Rousseau, giovane e talentuosa fashion designer). Era tempo di saldi, sicché non ho potuto apprezzare la maggior parte delle scelte effettuate da Roberta. Ciònondimeno era chiaro e visibile il suo gusto unico e le visioni che anche io apprezzo e condivido: uno su tutti Comme des Garçons insieme a Yohji Yamamoto, Lanvin, Vionnet, Azzedine Alaia come anche giovani creativi contemporanei quali Simone Rainer, Benedetta Bruzziches, Stella Jean e Fausto Puglisi. Moda e nuove idee come la sostenibilità, concretizzata nelle borse di Carmina Campus, brand creato dalla pionieristica Ilaria Venturini Fendi che promuove la cultura del riuso. Uno splendido interludio è stato la visita a Penelope Sposa, boutique di abiti da sposa che fa venir voglia di sposarsi (anche a coloro che – come me – sono allergici al matrimonio, poiché – come cantava Domenico Modugno – “con un contratto non si lega un sogno”). Ivi mi sono imbattuta in una futura sposa, bellissima, che stava scegliendo il proprio abito da sposa vestita da Penelope dalla testa ai piedi. Minimalismo, eleganza concettuale, sofisticazione e raffinatezza, queste sono le alchimie di Penelope. Un tempio da visitare e in cui tornare. Ritornerò presto per godere della compagnia di Roberta, della sua assertiva individualità e saggezza che amo e celebro e sperabilmente anche per vedere i suoi tesori nascosti, il suo ricco archivio, un’ autentica enciclopedia di moda concettuale, risorsa di cultura e preziose visioni.

Penelope, photo by N

Penelope, photo by N

Me, myself and I, hat moment at Penelope, photo by N

Me, myself and I, hat moment at Penelope, photo by N

May the cut-up be  with you!... William Burroughs at Penelope strikes back, photo by N

May the cut-up be with you!… William Burroughs at Penelope strikes back, photo by N

Magic moment: Penelopesposa, photo by N

Magic moment: Penelopesposa, photo by N

Lightness and a detail in the name of Vionnet, photo by N

Lightness and a detail in the name of Vionnet, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa,  photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Lace, silk and a vintage details, the shoes by Alaia, photo by N

Lace, silk and a vintage details, the shoes by Alaia, photo by N

Penelopestore, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Jewelry in the name of love at Penelopesposa, photo by N

Jewelry in the name of love at Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Lanvin at Penelopesposa, photo by N

Lanvin at Penelopesposa, photo by N

Lanvin at Penelopesposa, photo by N

Lanvin at Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

The one and only Roberta Valentini, me and the nice Penelope-sque being part of Penelope family, photo by N

The one and only Roberta Valentini, me and the nice Penelope-sque being part of Penelope family, photo by N

Dress by Comme des Garçons, necklace by Lanvin, photo by N

Dress by Comme des Garçons, necklace by Lanvin, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Penelopesposa, photo by N

Comme des Garçons, photo by N

Comme des Garçons, photo by N

Comme des Garçons, photo by N

Comme des Garçons, photo by N

Roberta Valentini showing me a acket by Comme des Garçons, photo by N

Roberta Valentini showing me a jacket by Comme des Garçons, photo by N

Miss Bonomi choosing the bridal gown and accessories at Penelopesposa, photo by N

Miss Bonomi choosing the bridal gown and accessories at Penelopesposa, photo by N

Vionnet, photo by N

Vionnet, photo by N

The magic of random: to see Roberta Valentini at the Brescia railway station early in the morning before leaving, photo by N

The magic of random: to see Roberta Valentini at the Brescia railway station early in the morning before leaving, photo by N

Black celebration moment featuring me, myself and I, photo by N

Black celebration moment featuring me, myself and I, photo by N

www.penelope-store.it

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

Fashion and art, a smashing combination under the sign of L. Rousseau, brand created by the young, brilliant Italian fashion designer Lucia Russo, – supported by the National Chamber of Italian Fashion -, featured in the Amsterdam Mercedes Benz Fashion Week where it was presented “Urban cut-up”, the Fall/Winter 2014-2015 capsule collection she made. The name of collection represents its theme, the new context found by the “cut-up” literary technique created by William Burroughs ( this year is the centenary of his birth), moving to fashion, cutting and mixing elements to create a new idea of femininity and new visions enhancing the urban element. It’ s a play of cuts and mix of shapes, balancing each other, revealing the idea of “over sensuality”. The aesthetics coming from urban architectures, digital world, a video-game, the Tetris and the universe of nature inspires the whole collection and is impressed in the fun and colored prints (made on cotton poplin, silk and Milano Stitch scuba diving), a leitmotiv of work by the creative, inspired by optical art and Vaserely. It’s a dialogue between tradition and innovation, emphasizing an assertive and contemporary femininity. Sporty chic elements, skirts, trousers and highly technical coats, are combined with light, silk shirts, born to be genuine passé-partout. An intense connection between fashion and art, expressed on the catwalk also by songwriter France de Griessen, testimonial of brand – along with actress Cat Smits -, eclectic artist who opened the fashion show with a live performance, accompanied by Shanka. The live performance included tracks from her new album “Saint Sebastien“, embodying songs of joy and sadness under the sign of the most vibrant underground sounds. Her album has been released on 20th January 2014. France’s music successfully expressed the mood depicted in the collection by Lucia Rousseau, blending metropolitan suggestions and romanticism.

MODA & ARTE: IL CUT-UP URBAN DI L. ROUSSEAU ALLA AMSTERDAM MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

Moda e arte, una formidabile combinazione sotto il segno di L. Rousseau, brand creato dalla giovane, brillante fashion designer italiana Lucia Russo, – sostenuta dalla Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana – è stata protagonista della Amsterdam Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in cui è stata presentata “Urban cut-up”, la collezione capsule 2014-2015 da lei realizzata. Il nome della collezione ne rappresenta il tema, il nuovo contesto del “cut-up” tecnica letteraria di William Burroughs (quest’ anno ricorre il centenario della sua nascita) che si sposta nella moda, taglia e mescola elementi per creare una nuova femminilità e nuove visioni che esaltano l’ elemento urban. È un gioco di tagli e mix di volumi in cui l’ uno bilancia l’ altro e svela l’ idea di “over sensuality”. L’ estetica proveniente dalle architetture urbane, il mondo digitale, un videogame, il Tetris e l’ universo della natura ispira l’ intera collezione ed è impressa nelle divertenti e colorate stampe (realizzate su popeline di cotone, seta e Punto Milano scuba diving), un leitmotiv dell’ opera della creativa che trae ispirazione dall’ arte optical e Vaserely. Un dialogo tra tradizione e innovazione che enfatizza una femminilità assertiva e contemporanea. Elementi sporty chic, gonne, pantaloni e cappotti altamente tecnologici, sono abbinati a leggere camicie di seta, nati per essere autentici passé-partout. Un’ intenso legame tra moda e arte, espresso anche dalla cantautrice France de Griessen, testimonial del brand – unitamente all’ attrice Cat Smits -, artista polietrica che ha aperto la sfilata con una performance dal vivo, accompagnata da Shanka. Il live ha incluso brani del suo nuovo album “Saint Sebastien” che racchiude in sè canti di gioia e tristezza all’ insegna delle più vibranti sonorità underground. Il suo album è stato pubblicato il 20 gennaio 2014. La musica di France ha espresso felicemente il mood ritratto nella collezione di Lucia Rousseau che unisce suggestioni metropolitane e romanticismo.

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

L. Rousseau Fall/Winter 2014-2015, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

France de Griessen, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

France de Griessen, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

France de Griessen and Shanka, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

France de Griessen and Shanka, photo by Giusy De Ceglia

The nice model Shona Lee Gal and me at the backstage, photo by N

The nice model Shona Lee Gal and me at the backstage, photo by N

France de Griessen at the backstage, photo by François Maigret

France de Griessen at the backstage, photo by François Maigret

Me, France de Griessen and  François Maigret aka Shanka, photo by  François Maigret

Me, France de Griessen and
François Maigret aka Shanka, photo by
François Maigret

Me, myself and I in L. Rousseau, photo by N

Me, myself and I in L. Rousseau, photo by N

www.ellelrousseau.com

Lady Jaye & Genesis P-Orridge

 

It has recently released in the USA cinemas “The Ballad of Genesis and Lady Jaye”, the film by Marie Losier, winner of many awards as the Teddy award at the Berlin Film Festival Forum, the Grand Prize in Lisbon at Indilisboa and many other ones, documentary featuring an intimate portrait of the life and work of bright performer artist and pioneer musician Genesis Breyer P-Orridge – front-man of Throbbing Gristle, celebrated industrial, electro band Psychic Tv, later turned into the PTV3 (band celebrating the idea of pleasure as arm, pandroginy as symbol of union and life opposed to the idea of separation and death) – and her wife Lady Jaye – died in 2007 -, with whom he made concrete the idea of “pandroginy”, resulting from a romantic idea, the idea of englobing one with the other – as Genesis P-Orridge asserted -, “becoming one big blob of love”. The idea has arisen from the “cut up” idea in literature by William Burroughs and Brion Gysin and the work they made “The third mind”(Groove Pr, 1982), but they made a further step, from the third mind we made the third person, resorting to the cosmetic surgery in order to be more similar as possible, two half of a new human being, P-Orridge, a new entity existing just when Genesis and Lady Jaye are together. The movie is essentially a vibrant tribute to love or rather – as Genesis P-Orridge says – “the greatest love affair of all times”, dedication, but also gives precious reflections about the idea of beauty and the performative process connecting innate beauty to the artificial one.

AMORE, DEDIZIONE & CREAZIONE: “THE BALLAD OF GENESIS AND LADY JAYE”, UN FILM DI MARIE LOSIER

 

É stato recentemente pubblicato nei cinema statunitensi “The Ballad of Genesis and Lady Jaye”, la pellicola di Marie Losier, vincitrice di molteplici premi quali il Teddy award al Film Festival Forum di Berlino, il Gran Premio a Lisbona durante Indilisboa e molti altri, documentario che ha quale protagonista un intimo ritratto della vita e opera del brillante performer e pionieristico musicista Genesis Breyer P-Orridge – leader dei Throbbing Gristle, della celebre band industrial, electro Psychic Tv, successivamente trasformata nei PTV3 (band che celebra l’ idea del piacere quale arma, la pandroginia quale simbolo dell’ unione e della vita, contrapposta all’ idea di separazione e  morte) – e sua moglie Lady Jaye – morta nel 2007 – con la quale ha concretizzato l’ idea di pandroginia, derivante da un’ idea romantica, “l’ idea di inglobarsi l’ uno con l’ altro” – come ha affermato Genesis P-Orridge -, “diventando un unico grande blob d’ amore”. L’ idea è nata dal concetto di “cut up” nella letteratura ad opera di William Burroughs e Brion Gysin e  l’ opera da loro realizzata “The third mind”( Groove Pr, 1982), ma costoro hanno effettuato un passo ulteriore, dal terzo uomo hanno creato la terza persona, ricorrendo alla chirurgia plastica al fine di essere il più possibile simili, due metà di un nuovo essere umano, P- Orridge, una nuova entità che esiste soltanto quando Genesis P-Orridge e Lady Jaye sono insieme. Il film è essenzialmente un vibrante tributo all’ amore o meglio – come dice Genesis P-Orridge – alla “più grande storia d’ amore di tutti i tempi”, alla dedizione, ma offre anche preziose riflessioni sull’ idea della bellezza e il processo performativo che connette la bellezza innata a quella artificiale.

Genesis P-Orridge and Lady Jaye, still image from “The Ballad of Genesis and Lady Jaye”, by Marie Losier

Genesis P-Orridge & Lady Jaye

www.balladofgenesisandladyjaye.com